pods on - bike running

[Steve Northrop]

Never had any doubt it would start up and run! Remove the filters and loosen 
the clamps on the boots. Pop the carbs back out of the boots and slide them 
out the right side. Put a towel on the motor and let them rest against it. 
Don't even have to undo the throttle/choke cables. This is the "no airbox" 
advantage! Do one thing at a time as the circuits overlap a bit and you'll 
have a better idea of what change made what get better (or worse). Set the 
pilot screws out until the motor runs smooth at a steady 4000 rpm in second 
gear on the road. If it's lean, it'll surge and burble. You'll know when you 
get it right.

Steve in Western NY
'96 GPZ1100
'02 Daytona 955i
"You Can't Fix Stupid", Ron White

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "David Beard" <davidebeard at comcast.net>
To: "Kawasaki GPZ1100 discussion" <gpzlist at micapeak.com>
Sent: Sunday, July 08, 2007 5:45 PM
Subject: pods on - bike running


> Well, I got the Stage 3 kit and pods installed and , surprise...surprise, 
> the bike actually started up and is running. Took it for a couple of test 
> rides and I've got some tweaking to do. The main jets (138) seem to be 
> right. Top end power is nice. First time I ran it through the gears, there 
> was enough extra power that the bike was slamming the chain as I released 
> the clutch. In fact the bike pulls nicely in second gear from 5000 rpm on 
> up. Below 5000, it's pretty anemic. I think it's fairly lean down low, so 
> as soon as the bike cools off to the point I can work on it, I'll turn the 
> mixture screws out 1/2 turn ( running 38 idle jets, currently set at 1 
> turn out) as the bike was stumbling just a little  off idle until it 
> warmed up. I'll try moving the needles up a notch as well to see if that 
> helps the midrange a bit.
>
> Has anyone tried removing the slides and needles with the carbs still on 
> the bike? Just wondering if there's enough clearance.
>
> Thanks for your help guys.
>
> Dave B