Handlebar needed RHS 95 GPZ

[David Hall]

ok  guys... anyone have a rhs handlebar for a 1995 GPZ1100?  Thats all that's keeping me from getting back on the road...

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Today's Topics:

1. Re: She no go (Simon White)
2. RE: Tire patching (Simon White)
3. Re: was Racetech, now XS650 and XT600 (William K Denton)


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Message: 1
Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2008 09:44:14 +1000
From: "Simon White" 
Subject: Re: She no go
To: gpzlist at micapeak.com
Message-ID: <20080120234414.B09831CE7A2 at ws1-6.us4.outblaze.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-15"

Well, I had another go on Friday; pulled the tank and the two outside leads, and it wouldn't kick at all any more. I tried a plug in each of leads 1 and 4, and there was no spark at all, so it looks like the ignitor's gone. I think 2 & 3 are just flooded, but given the it's still in my work carpark, and my tools/time/light was limited, I've called it quits and rung my mechanic. They'll be out to collect it sometime Monday morning. If it is the ignitors, I'll see how much they want, but have little doubt it'll be a fortune. Wait and see - maybe it's something obvious & simple I overlooked.

Thanks for all the input.

Simon.

> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Simon White" 
> To: gpzlist at micapeak.com
> Subject: Re: She no go
> Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2008 10:56:37 +1000
> 
> 
> Well, I've gone and had another try. Results are as follows:
> 
> Kill switch (I assume you mean the Off/Run switch on the right bar) - 
> definitely appears OK. If it's turned off, the bike doesn't even kick over. 
> Same result with the clutch/sidestand lockouts. All of them stop the starter 
> motor running, not just the ignition. Is this not the case with other GPZ's?
> 
> My battery's about 18 months old, but seems pretty healthy. Just to be sure, 
> this morning I was jump starting it from my car, so no problem in that area. 
> I was concerned last night with the voltage drop, which was why I ended up 
> leaving it.
> 
> Ignition leads may be a problem (AFAIK they're original), but wouldn't 
> explain it running fine in the morning and not firing at all in the 
> afternoon. Up till yesterday, the bike's always started after <1 second on 
> the starter. The only issue I've had was with bad fuel, but that didn't stop 
> it, just made it run really badly.
> 
> No alarm cutout fitted, so it isn't that.
> 
> At this point, I'm going to run with the flooding option. Can't really see 
> how it could effect all cylinders at once, but I guess anything's possible. 
> Later this afternoon, I'll pull the tank again, and work my way through the 
> plugs/leads/whatever.
> 
> Thanks for the advice - if anything else occurs to anyone, let me know.
> 
> Simon.

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------------------------------

Message: 2
Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2008 11:03:35 +1000
From: "Simon White" 
Subject: RE: Tire patching
To: gpzlist at micapeak.com
Message-ID: <20080121010335.D98A8103C3 at ws1-3.us4.outblaze.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"

I patched my rear Pilot Road when it was punctured by a piece of glass. The hole was in the groove, and I did the same repair as John. Replaced it last year after just over 20k km. Never leaked or had any other issues, and it wasn't down to the cords, but I did check the repair regularly just to be sure.

Given our draconian anti-speeding laws, most of my riding was sub-65mph, so YMMV.

Simon.

> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "John Soliday" 
> To: "'Tom Wheeler'" , gpzlist at micapeak.com
> Subject: RE: Tire patching
> Date: Sun, 20 Jan 2008 08:59:06 -0700
> 
> 
> I've patched numerous bike and car tires over the years. It seems easier
> and faster to do it myself and I can usually do it on the bike or car w/o
> removing the wheel. I just use the plan sticky strip types found at auto
> stores and get one with the BIG T-handle as it takes a lot to push the patch
> through. I also use rubber cement to really lubricate the patch and
> insertion tool first to make it go in easier (I know, I know, sexual
> connotations). I've ran bike tires to the wear bars with patches and never
> had one leak. It does make the steel belt weaker in that one area so I
> would avoid long speeds over 100mph ;-)
> 
> John

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------------------------------

Message: 3
Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2008 00:40:18 -0500
From: "William K Denton" 
Subject: Re: was Racetech, now XS650 and XT600
To: "GPz List" 
Message-ID: <005301c85bf0$1c69bef0$6605a8c0 at D72H4BB1>
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset=iso-8859-1;
reply-type=response

Jim,

I have the stock saddle on the XS650E. I usually don't ride it more than 
200 miles per day. The longest ride I ever took it on was on the way home 
from Milwaukee, WI, which is where I purchased it in 1998. That was two 450 
mile days, back to back. I used a strap on gel pad and it was just fine. 
Same one I used cross-country on the XV920R earlier that same year.

Re the XT600, I don't know much about it, other than the fact that the 
engine shares a lot of parts with the SRX600. $750 sounds reasonable, 
although you didn't mention the model year. Be advised that the phrase 
"need carbs cleaned" is sometimes a diversionary tactic used by sellers to 
cover up more serious problems. You roll the dice and take your chances.

Bill in Yardley, PA
wkdenton at verizon.net

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "The Masons" 


> Bill:
> Did you do anything with the seat on your XS 650?

What do you know about the Yamaha XT 600. There's a low
> mileage one near (ad says needs carbs cleaned) here for $750.00 which 
> seems reasonable.
>
> Jim



End of GPZList Digest, Vol 14, Issue 15
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